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Troubleshooting Spa Equipment
Repairing Hot Tubs
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CAUTION: Electrical repairs can be dangerous, especially around water. We recommend that repairs be referred to a qualified electrician or spa technician. Regardless of who performs the work, make certain that all electrical power to the hot tub or spa is disconnected prior to making any inspections or repairs. The information  provided here is for educational purposes only.

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Spa repairs Spa does not run, no power, nothing works.

Components associated:

  • Fuse
  • GFCI
  • Input Wiring
  • High-limit switch

A) Check incoming power for proper potential (voltage: 110 or 220vac).  Check circuit breaker. Do not continue until power checks correctly.

B) Test and reset GFCI.  If GFCI does not stay set, disconnect all loads from control (pump, blower, heater, ozonator, etc).  If GFCI still does not stay set, internal wiring is shorted or GFCI is faulty. If GFCI remains set, reconnect each load until GFCI trips again.  Last load connected must be cause of failure (remember that some devices will not operate without others, i.e. heat will not engage without the pump).

C) If GFCI tests and resets, check fuse.- If fuse blows again, disconnect all loads as in step B). If fuse continues to blow there is an internal wiring problem. If fuse remains good, reconnect each load one at a time until failure reoccurs as in step B). Remember to turn each device on before proceeding to next load device. Last unit connected before fuse fails must be the cause.

D) If Steps A) through C) check good but the unit still will not power up, check the voltage at the high limit contactor (line side contact voltage, coil voltage, load side contact voltage). If line side contact voltage is bad, check input terminal block connections (check also for proper jumper placement on newly-installed convertible voltage control systems, if unit is running 110v). If coil voltage is bad, check that high limit switch is set. Reset if tripped.  If problem reoccurs, check flow-through heater manifold. (make sure heater element is not touching the sides of the manifold.  If it is, move element away from manifold with long screwdriver. Make sure power is disconnected). Inspect valves to make sure they are fully open, inspect filter element (run unit without filter if possible to see if symptoms change). If previous checks show good, replace high limit. If both line side contact voltage and coil voltage check good, but load side contact voltage is bad, replace high limit contactor.

E) If Steps A) through D) check good, internal control system wiring or circuit board is at fault.  Repair or replace.

See also: GFCI keeps tripping.

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